10/29/2023 0 Comments Making medieval costumes for kidsNote: This work order goes for both the sewing machine and hand-sewing. Side seams front to back and gores so the sides will be completely closed.Attach the gores to dress front, back, sides.If I work with linen, silk or brocade that will fray, I sometimes zigzag around all pieces on my sewing machine. Mark them with front/back/sleeve/gore.Ĭut them out. Check that you have made all the pieces with the right measurements and that all are drawn onto your fabric before cutting. Then, draft all the pieces on your fabric with a fabric marker and ruler. When calculating all these measures, draft them out on your pattern pieces to remember them. This will make sure the dress keep good proportions and all the drape. For example: if your circumference around your torso is 20% more, also add 20% width to the gores. If you calculate on a larger size than this example, let the width of the gores follow the other measures. A lower-class garment might have narrower gores, a fancy dress wider. I recommend a measure between 50-80 cm for each gore. The width of gores depends on what kind of dress you would like to do, your overall size and how much fabric you have. Length of gores: length of the dress – length from shoulder to waist/hip + 3,5 cm SA. Check out my tutorial on how to make these For gores in the middle back and front, cut a straight line to 1 cm below this measure (39 cm from shoulder) to insert them. From the shoulder, I measure 38 cm and make a line, here is where the gores should be attached on front and back pieces. Length from shoulder to natural waist (for women) to hip (for men). 56 cm + 2 cm= 58 cm (measure around the S curve of the arm) add SA: 58 + 3 cm= 61cm is the sleeve base measure. The sleeve base should be 2 cm wider than the complete armhole. Each armhole on the pieces should be no more than 28 cm (measure the curve). Example: around my armhole, I have 56 cm. The measure you got is divided into 2, for a measure of the sleeve hole on the front and back piece. The armhole should be a bit loose without hanging). This is just the starting measure.Īround your armhole (if you find this hard try to measure around a loose shirt or blouse. Shape the sleeve to your taste so it fits comfortable around your arm while sewing the sleeve. Try on before hemming to adjust the length to your taste.Īround your wrist (for tight buttoned sleeves) or around your hand to be able to take on and off the garment): The narrow part of the sleeve. Add SA., so sleeve pieces should be 64 +1,5 +2 cm= 67,5 cm. Length of arm from shoulder (around elbow while bent 90 degrees) to wrist: Example: 64 cm. Example: dress should be 140 cm when finished. Add seam allowance: 2 cm = hem + 1,5 cm for shoulders. Calculate the measures you need:Īround your widest part of torso: Divide in 2. It will also most likely shrink a little, so this makes you able to wash your clothes after using them.ĭraft the pieces you need on a bit of paper. The fabric is prepped with chemicals to avoid mould or bugs during the shipping and selling process and could be stretched uneven after the weaving. Wash and iron your fabric before sewing.Seam allowance is mentioned as SA in this post. You can pick whatever measure you want between 1 cm-3 cm, just remember what you chose. How many gores? Two are enough for undergarments and knee-long kirtles, four or more will give you more width, a smoother and more even fall of fabric and more movement when walking.A too shallow armhole will make your sleeve hang, but too wide will make movement hard. The sleeve should cover your arm, the arm joint, but fit snugly under your arm (in the armpit). Don’t be afraid to cut out your armhole according to your body.When you pin/baste together long seams, such as a diagonal cut gore with a straight panel, put the gore (the diagonally cut stretchy part) under the other one, when sewing on a machine the gore will not stretch. Basting the armhole before sewing makes that seam easier to finish nicely. Basting seams are an easy way to try the fit, size, movement and drape of skirts while sewing.This will make the work easier, and the seams better. When pinning always lay your pieces on a flat surface (a table or the floor) and work on that while pinning.If sewing by hand, pin along the seamline so as not to get the pins in your hand, or baste the seams before sewing. If sewing on a sewing machine, pin from right to left, across the seam, to make it easy to remove the pins while sewing.you will learn how to make that for doublets, jackets and 2. The reason my dress have two seams in the sleeves are 1. Note that a regular S-sleeve does not have two seams, only one at the back.
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